BENCHTIPS: your stone setting questions answered - with anelia kuprina
As part of our Benchtips series, I was joined by award-winning jeweller Anelia Kuprina to answer your questions on stone setting. You can watch the replay in full here or check out the questions to skip to the one you would love the answer to!
You can watch the whole masterclass or take a look below to see if there are any specific questions that you have. These are time-stamped below so you can skip straight to the answer.
1.33 Could you talk about bezel setting angular stones (square or rectangular) specifically how to close the setting (not the construction of the bezel). For example, would filing the corners before placing the stone in, be advisable as a general rule?
3.50 if you are filing the corner of bezels, what files should you use?
5. 20 recommended tool - safety back file is must-have for stone setting
5.30 I have multiple settings on a ring that are snug to each other - a collet, tube and a claw marquise - I know, I'm crazy! - any tips on how to set settings that are so close together? Is there a way to add space around the settings to allow to push over the walls/claws?
10 Any tips on flush setting and how to avoid scratching the area around the stone please?
15.24 Do you have any tips on protecting stones when using a hammer handpiece?
18.15 I have some beautiful rose-cut cushion-shaped cabochons (they have curved corners but a subtle point in the middle of each side as a result of the cut) - any tips and advice on preparing a bezel using 0.8mm fine silver sheet for the cleanest setting. I’ll be adding a chamfer
22.03 I have a small baguette emerald I'd like to add it to a ring but have no idea where to start. Ideally, it would be a claw setting to show the stone off but I can't find cast settings for a baguette stone? Any advice would be great thank you!
26.14 Do you work with CAD cast models? what do you look for or request in a good cast setting. example claw length, bezel height?
30.15 How can you best clean up the sides of a setting that has been bezel set/hammer handpiece set without filing the top of the stone too? I’m not good with gravers, so slicing off the inner side to make it neat isn't an option
34.08 Tips for when cabochons are rocking within a bezel setting because the back isn't perfectly flat?
39.00 Can you set a stone with a thick wall without a hammer handpiece?
42.36 What's your opinion of cast-in-place settings?
46.15 How do you do a spectacle setting? I am not sure how to make it and how you close it eventually too as you may not be able to solder when the stone is in
52.00 I'm doing the fine jewellery diploma, I've been happy with my settings on most pieces but not happy with the overall finishing and polishing. Should the cleaning and polishing always be done before setting? I made the cluster ring and even though I was happy with finish before setting, after setting I have struggled to get the finish to desirable level.
Must-have tools mentioned in this Q&A
Safety back files
Optivisors
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