A Jewellers Guide to Pearls: Plus a Free Certified Course on Pearls worth $500 For You
This week on the Jewellers Academy podcast I had a fascinating chat with Jeremy Shepherd all about pearls. Jeremy is a key figure in the pearl industry as the founder of Pearl Paradise, an online retailer of one of the world’s largest collections in fine pearl jewellery. He is also the author of the Pearl Guide Online resource and the vice president of the Cultured Pearl Association of America. Jeremy is generously gifting you an online certification course, Pearl as One, worth over £500 for free. In this episode, we give you a great overview of the four main types of pearls, how to price your pearl jewellery and more.
Various loose pearl, image copyright Jeremy Shepherd
What are the four main types of pearls? In order of value from lowest to highest they are freshwater pearls, acoya pearls, tahitian pearls and south sea pearls.
Freshwater pearls
Freshwater pearls are beautiful pearls that are formed within freshwater mussels. Unlike saltwater pearls, which are cultivated in oysters, freshwater pearls are produced by mussels that inhabit rivers, lakes, and ponds. The process of farming freshwater pearls involves carefully placing small pieces of mantle tissue from a donor mussel into the host mussel. The host mussel then coats the tissue with layers of nacre, resulting in the formation of a pearl. One of the remarkable characteristics of freshwater pearls is their wide variety of colours, ranging from white and cream to pink, lavender, and even vibrant shades like peacock green. The value of freshwater pearls is determined by factors such as size, shape, colour, lustre, surface quality, and overall appeal. While larger, rounder pearls with high lustre and minimal blemishes are generally more valuable, the uniqueness and individuality of each pearl also play a significant role in their worth. Freshwater pearls are highly sought after for their affordability, versatility, and the charm they bring to various jewellery pieces.
2. Akoya pearl
Akoya pearls are a type of cultured pearl and are considered a classic pearl, with a white or cream colouring. These pearls are cultivated using a species of pearl oyster called Pinctada fucata and are mainly farmed in Japan. The process of farming akoya pearls is similar to other pearl farming methods. Akoya pearls are highly valued for their unique colour and radiance. As with all pearls. the value of an akoya pearl depends on factors such as size, shape, colour, lustre, surface quality, and overall desirability. Larger pearls, those with a smooth surface, high lustre, and a uniform colour are considered more valuable in the market. The rarity of akoya pearls contributes to their exclusivity and adds to their allure for pearl enthusiasts and collectors alike.
3. tahitian pearl
Tahitian pearls are exquisite and originate from the warm waters of French Polynesia. Unlike other pearls, which are primarily formed by oysters, Tahitian pearls are produced by a species of black-lipped oyster called Pinctada margaritifera. These oysters are carefully cultivated in pearl farms using a process known as pearl farming or pearl culture. Tahitian pearls are renowned for their rich, dark colours ranging from black to grey, green, blue, and even purple. The larger the pearl, the more valuable it tends to be. Additionally, pearls with high lustre, a smooth surface, and a unique colour command a higher price in the market.
Examples of Tahitian pearls, image copyright Jeremy Shepherd
4. South sea pearls
South Sea pearls are exceptional and highly coveted gems that originate from the Pinctada maxima oyster, which is found in the warm waters of the South Pacific. These pearls are renowned for their large size, exceptional lustre, and exquisite beauty. The unique and natural colours of South Sea pearls range from creamy white to golden and even rare silver tones. The value of South Sea pearls is determined by several factors, including size, shape, colour, lustre, surface quality, and overall desirability. Larger pearls with a perfectly round shape, high lustre, and minimal blemishes are highly sought after and command a higher price. Due to their scarcity and exceptional quality, South Sea pearls are considered some of the most valuable and treasured pearls in the world, making them a prized possession for collectors and jewellery enthusiasts alike.
South Sea pearls, image copyright Jeremy Shepherd
How are pearls formed?
Beaded pearls (akoya, Tahitian and South Sea) are created by inserting a bead into the gonad of the oyster along with a small piece of mantle tissue from a donor shell. The mantle tissue contains the epithelial cells that produce nacre. The tissue forms into a pearl sac around the bead and the cells start depositing nacre on the bead.
Many centuries ago, someone whose identity is lost to pearling history declared that a natural pearl forms when foreign matter, such as a grain of sand, invades a shelled mollusk’s soft tissue, and the mollusk progressively coats the invader with shell material to sooth the irritation it causes. That explanation has been repeated so often, it’s taken as true. But both common sense and close analysis demonstrate it is utterly false.
First, common sense: If soothing irritation were the mollusk’s purpose in coating the foreign matter with shell material, why would it continue coating once enough layers were applied to give the irritant a smooth surface?
Second, close analysis: Foreign matter gets inside the mollusk and either lodges in the mantle tissue where the epithelial cells that produce shell material are, or it picks up epithelial cells on its way to settling somewhere else in the mollusk’s soft body. Whether in the mantle or elsewhere, the epithelial cells continue doing what they’re genetically programmed to do—produce shell material. But rather than continuing to build a shell, the cells form a pearl sac and create a pearl that encapsulates the invader. A cultured pearl with a bead as its core is produced by adapting this process.
Pearls do not form around a grain of sand. Most often, pearls form around a small bit of organic matter or are a result of damage to the shell or the mantle muscle.
How is price determined when buying pearls?
With all types of pearls, their value is determined by various factors such as size, shape, colour, lustre, surface quality, and overall uniqueness.
How should I price jewellery that includes pearls?
Pricing your pearl jewellery is similar to pricing jewellery with gemstones. For the lower end of the pearl market, i.e. the freshwater pearls, your markup on your jewellery should be around two or three times the price that you paid for those pearls. Once the value of the pearls exceeds around £300 the markup drops because the value of the pearl increases. You should be looking at around x1.5 for pearls at the higher end. You do want to ensure you have factored in a ‘finders fee’ meaning that if you are making a piece with a pearl or pearls you will need to spend time finding the right pearl for the piece and ensure you are paid for that time. But for a higher-priced pearl, doubling or trebling the cost for the customer is likely putting it out of reach and customers interested in that price of pearl typically are aware of the expected price.
Your FREE Pearls as One certification course
(worth over $500)
Thank you to Jeremy who has generously gifted you an online course in pearls which allows you to learn more and gain a certification from the Cultured Pearl Association of America.
How do I access my free course to start learning more?
Follow the instructions below.
Go to pearlsasone.org and create an account and password
Click enrol in course (don’t worry about the price, your coupon code gives you 100% off)
Under ‘course summary’ click on ‘add coupon code’
Use the coupon code japearls and click apply
This will give you 100% off the course. Now complete the rest of the page and click ‘get it for free’
Now you can start your certification course in pearls.
About Jeremy Shepherd
Jeremy Shepherd is the founder and CEO of Pearl Paradise Inc. He is also the Vice President of the Cultured Pearl Association of America (CPAA), the creator of Pearl-Guide News and Forums, and the author of Pearls As One, the CPAA's pearl specialist certification course.
podcast episode
Episode Description:
Today we’re talking about all things pearls with Jeremy Shepherd (1:14)
How did you end up on this career path? (3:24)
What are Freshwater Pearls? (10:48)
Why are Akoya Pearls so popular? (14:49)
How are pearls graded? (17:48)
Can you tell us about your course for learning more about pearls? (23:16)
What are Tahitian Pearls or black pearls? (28:05)
Why are South Sea Pearls so rare? (37:19)
How common are Conch Pearls? (41:24)
How are pearls marked up? (42:35)
What’s next for you? (46:34)
Resources:
Learn more about Jewellers Academy
Watch this episode on YouTube
Join the Jewellers Academy Facebook Group
Order your copy of “Start and Grow a Profitable Jewellery Business”
Use Code JAPEARLS to take the Pearls as One Course for free
Cultured Pearl Association of America
Pearl Guide website
Pearl Paradise website
Find Jewellers Academy on Instagram and Facebook
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In this episode we talk to Fiona Haines of Wise Fig jewellery. Fiona shares about her fascinating career, retraining in jewellery and her advice for anyone interested in studying gemstones and gem cutting.
